Showers and Bathtubs

Masonry shower enclosure: what to build the wall from, shape, fall, waterproofing, and light

A masonry shower enclosure replaces a glass screen with a wall covered in wall tiles or plaster. You don't have to clean glass, and the shower feels like part of the bathroom. However, you need a longer space, a well-anchored wall made of moisture-resistant material, a fall to the drain, thorough waterproofing at all joints, and light that illuminates even behind the wall.

Prepared by: TGB Kúpeľne team, bathroom showroom in Senec since 1991updated 9. 11. 20265 min read

Illustrative image: shower behind a brick wall tiled with grey wall tiles with niche and drain at the back wall

The basic dimensions of a masonry shower, options with a low wall and glass, and the procedure are briefly described in the article Shower enclosure with or without a tray. This article goes into detail: what to build the wall from, what shape to choose, how to anchor and insulate it, and how to solve lighting.

When a masonry shower is worth it

A masonry shower is suitable when you have a longer bathroom and do not want a large glass area. The wall separates the shower from the toilet or sink, hides the mixer, and provides space for a niche or bench. Plan for at least 90 × 120 cm of space. In a shorter bathroom, glass is more practical – it takes up less space and lets in light.

Wall shape

What to build the wall from

The thickness of the wall also determines the niche – a thin wall results in a shallow niche. If you want a deep niche for bottles, plan for a thicker wall or a niche in the perimeter wall.

Anchoring and outlets

• Anchoring – the wall is supported only on one side, so it must be anchored to the load-bearing wall with anchors or strips according to the material manufacturer and securely connected to the floor.
• Top edge – with a low wall, it must be solid, insulated, and tiled with a fall into the shower to prevent water from standing on it.
• Battery outlets – if the mixer is to be on the masonry wall, the pipes must be run in the wall or floor before masonry. The concealed body is installed in the wall during masonry.
• Bench – if you want one, build it at the same time as the wall. Heights and procedures are described in the article Shower with a bench.

Fall, drain and entrance

The shower floor needs a fall of 1 to 2 % towards the drain – Alcadrain states 2 %, that is 2 cm per meter. Place the drain against the back wall or along the masonry wall, not at the entrance – otherwise, water will accumulate where you walk. The shower head should point away from the entrance. You can find the height difference table in the article Creating a fall in the shower floor, and the choice of drain in the article Linear shower drain or point drain. You can find drains in the online shop in the category Drainage channels and strips.

Waterproofing: junctions

In a masonry shower, there are more places where different materials meet and where water likes to find a way.

1. Primer for absorbent substrates, especially aerated concrete.
2. Sealing tapes in all corners – also at the junction of the masonry wall with the floor and with the bathroom wall.
3. Sleeves around the battery outlets and drain.
4. Nika and top edge – fully insulated, with a fall into the shower.
5. Two layers of liquid waterproofing membrane according to EN 14891 and inspection before tiling.

We describe materials, consumption, and drying in the article Liquid waterproofing, and errors in the shower in the article Waterproofing the shower enclosure.

Wall surface

A flat wall is tiled in the same way as the bathroom wall – with large formats, there are fewer joints. A curved wall is easier to tile with mosaic or to create from the membrane, as large tiles cannot bend into a curve. Finish the outer edges of the wall with a trim or by cutting the tiles at an angle to avoid sharp edges.

Light and ventilation

There is less light behind a masonry wall. A light directly above the shower or an LED strip in the niche will help. Strict rules apply for lighting in the shower – lights in zones 0 and 1 must have covers suitable for the respective zone, and placement is determined by the electrician according to STN 33 2000-7-701. In a shower without doors, warm steam cannot be retained, so a warm bathroom and a fan to remove moisture are important.

Masonry wall or glass

Common mistakes

• Unanchored wall – will move over time, causing cracks in joints and waterproofing.
• Autoclaved aerated concrete without primer – the membrane does not adhere well and the substrate absorbs water.
• Faucet outlets addressed only after masonry – unnecessary cutting.
• Too narrow entrance at an L-shaped wall.
• Drain at the entrance and the head facing out.
• Dark shower without light behind the wall.

Sources: installation manual Alcadrain (fall 2 %), EN 14891 (waterproofing membranes), STN 33 2000-7-701 (zones and coverage in the bathroom), technical sheets from manufacturers of autoclaved aerated concrete, building boards, and glass blocks; our articles Shower enclosure with or without a tray, Creating a fall in the shower, Waterproofing the shower enclosure, and Walk-in shower.

Terms in the dictionary: Shower tray · Fall · Primer · Waterproofing · Linear shower drain · Floor drain (point drain)